Hiking

  “Anything that can create itself by erupting out of the bowels of the Pacific Ocean is worth looking at.” —Hunter S. Thompson, The Curse of Lono The rain closed down the backcountry trails my first few nights on the …

Gouged into the walls of Hawaii’s Hamakua Coast is the Waipi’o Valley, a legendary gorge that has been the home to countless rulers of the island. Getting down to this sacred site is hard. Getting out is even harder. “Hey …